AACHEN PARIS BIKE ADVENTURE: DAY 5 <- clicken Sie here ...

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The trip starts with a almost non-existent trail along the canal. What a pain in the ass: We can barely get our bike through the thick grass, but we fight on to reach Noyon around noon. As we enter the city we see the first road signs for Paris: Excellent! Our adrenaline starts rushing like that of a marathon runner getting his first glimpse of the finish line. Can we reach Paris by night? We have no idea, but we are in good spirits. We will be riding under the Arc de Triomphe soon.

The Abbeye de Ourscamps

In the afternoon it´s around 37 degrees again and riding becomes quite exhausting. We reach the Abbeye de Ourscamps, an beautiful ancient monastery that is still inhabited by quiet monks in thick brown robes. As we ride through the gates of the Abbeye we see a group of them peacefully glide through the gardens. This could be a scene right out of Umberto Eco's The Name Of The Rose. We take an unscheduled break to explore the monastery and the remnants of a burned-out gothic cathedral inside it, then rest in the shade of an apple tree.

We reach Compiegne by 17:00, way to late for the 55 km we only covered today. Here we find out that Paris is at least another 80 km, too much to reach tonight. What a disappointment. We still try to keep the break short in hopes of getting as far as possible, but 15 km outside of Compiegne I suddenly break down from exhaustion. We stop and I sleep for two hours straight.

Our private beach

After this power nap I feel better again, but I am spent and we call it a day. Looking for a place to set up the tents nearby, we stumble across a little piece of paradise: We are suddenly standing in front of a private, fenced-in lake full of clear green water that just looks perfect for camping out. The gate is not locked, and as we ride around the lake we can´t believe our eyes: The lake has it´s own beach, a strip of pure white sand that could rival the beaches of the Caribean. The owner must have trucked the sand in to create his own little resort complete with barbeque, lounge chairs, and surf board. And nobody is around. This must be a sign from God.

"We´re are lucky bastards" I think to myself as I take a swim in the lake's emerald water, while Mario is relaxing in a beach chair sipping on some red wine. What more could you ask for ...

tags: adventure, bicyle, aachen, paris

AACHEN PARIS BIKE ADVENTURE: DAY 4 <- clicken Sie here ...

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The ride is tough again, but by now I am used to it at we make good time. The day goes by quickly. We choose Chauny for our night camp because it has a little marina where I can take a shower in the morning. Excellent prospect, I am really looking forward to this!

While setting up tent I hear some music far away, so we take our bikes to find out what it is. We end up at a open-air movie viewing of Buena Vista Social Club. What a perfect ending to a though day riding: A breezy summer night, chatty French locals, cold blond beer, and the heart-warming Cuban music of the movie make for a perfect evening.
A votre Sante ...

tags: adventure, bicyle, aachen, paris

AACHEN PARIS BIKE ADVENTURE: DAY 3 <- clicken Sie here ...

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In the morning we cross the French border and instantly the bikepaths along the canal worsen from the nicely paved roads we had throughout Belgium to rough grassy trails, sometimes even nothing at all. We are riding through wetlands, and heat, flies, and the bumpy trail are becoming unbearable. Again it's me demanding a change, Marion thinks everything is just swell.

We move away from the canal to ride on country roads, making sure we keep the canal in sight to give us direction. The roads turn out to be a welcome change, much easier to make distance, and a nice variation to the dull, straight canal route. We pass quaint little villages patched into the undulating countryside.

In the afternoon we allow ouselves a chilled beer at an old pub in a village we pass. The place is filled with locals engaging in a card game tournament. All the old folks living in the village seem to be here participating. We enjoy watching these simple people so delightfully engaged in their game. The locals leave us alone for most part, but as we leave curiosity gets the best of them. They strike up a conversation, asking us about our bikes, where we are from, and where we are headed. They call our endevor to Paris "courageous", which makes us a little bit proud. Spirits are high as we estimate only 200 km left for Paris, two days of riding.

To spice things up I suggest we make a barbeque for the night. Mario agrees and we set up a fire and barbeque a steak, first hot food during our trip. What a delicious exception to our dreary meals! So far we´ve been eating baguettes and Salami and maybe a can of cold Ravioli morning and night. This primitive lifestyle is saving us money, but it also sours the experiece a bit. Our barbeque did not cost much more, but was such a satisfying change. I make a mental note to be more creative about the food from now on.

Now I just want a shower to feel alright, but you can´t have it all. Poison for the night: Vodka and orange juice.

tags: adventure, bicyle, aachen, paris

AACHEN PARIS BIKE ADVENTURE: DAY 2 <- clicken Sie here ...

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To make 100 km per day means that your aim is to ride 50 km before lunch, take a long lunch break, ride another 50 km after lunch, and set up camp in the evening. In between you take some smaller or longer breaks as needed.

Today we try to reach Charleroi in the South of Belgium by lunchtime, but without a map we have no idea how far it is. It turns out to be 70 km instead of 50 km, and at 37 degress blazing sun it is just too much for me. This is supposed to be fun, not torture. I feel like a rider of the Tour de France forcing his way ahead through pain, sweat, and fatigue, except there is no prize for me if I make it to our midday goal. Shortly before we reach the city I've had it: I throw the bike on the ground and demanded a break. Mario is a little surprised at my reaction, but agrees to stop for some food and drink. During the whole tour he is totally immune to pain or exhaustion, and I feel stupid that I always have to be the one calling for a break.

Riding the bike we get to know the country-side we passed quite well. We see big differences when we cross borders into another country, and even individual regions all have their own character: Rich or poor, medieval or modern, rural or metropolitan. The sourroundings pass us in slow-motion, and we have plenty of time to soak up their personaliy.

Many parts of Belgium we pass are quite depressing, brimming with heavy, rusty industry totally disfiguring the nature around. Especially Charleroi in the South of Belgium is a poor, dirty, industrial monster, with smoke belching factories, rusty old cranes, and scrap metal disarrayed everywhere. The worker's homes have all taken on the color of the rusty brown smoke from the factories' old brick chimneys. These conditions are so far away from the comfort my workplace provides, and I imagine what this dreary environment does to the people.

Much to my surprise the Belgian people turn out to be nicest of all the people we met along they way, very friendly and laid-back. There was not a single person that doesn't greet us with a "bon jour" as we pass by, or takes the time for a little chat with us about the tour. For me that is an important part of the trip: Getting to know a little bit more about the countries and the people we pass.

The last 10 km or so before our chosen camp site we always ride on eggshells. That´s when we have bought or fix of alcohol for the night, and neither of us want to see a bottle break from heavy riding. Tonight it´s two bottles of red wine. We camp at one of the 18th century sluices regulating the traffic on the canal. A bath in the mucky canal is all I get this evening, but it is better than nothing.

tags: adventure, bicyle, aachen, paris